Realization of a wooden vegetable patch, without nails or screws

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:

Manuals and reference books:

Data from registers:

Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Go to search results >>>

The edges of the vegetable gardens are often delimited by wooden planks. We could perhaps find as many reasons for the existence of these squares as there are gardeners. Among them, the edges of the squares strongly limit the progression of unwanted weeds, which reduces the time to devote to the less exciting task of gardening, weeding. Another reason is to allow the land to be raised. The ground will be higher, and it will be less painful to lean to its surface. It is also for this reason that the squares must not be too large, in order to be able to reach the center without trampling the crops. The essence of the wood is an important question which directly determines that of the price. Also, to keep our vegetable patch accessible, we use fir. It is the cheapest gasoline and it is available everywhere. An untreated spruce formwork board is also suitable. Ideally, in order to guarantee good longevity outdoors, chestnut, acacia or locust should be used. So many species that would allow our square to last a few more years. With the fir tree, two or three years will be a maximum in a humid environment.
Difficulty : average (a little patience and application) Cost : around twenty euros Tools required : - 4 boards (untreated) of identical length and thickness - A handsaw - A grater - One meter - A pencil Optional tools : - A carpenter's square - Stakes to maintain the work

Step 1: Plot

Take 4 boards of identical width, length and thickness.
The = this is the spacing between the two notches. The 4 identical for a square, or 2 longer for a rectangle, your choice. e = the thickness of the board. The notch will be equal to the thickness to allow the other boards to fit together. at = arbitrary, but you must leave at least 3 times the width of the notch at each end, because it is the most fragile part of the whole: it can break along the middle axis. l = it is the width of the board, the depth of the notch is equal to half the width.
We start tracing the first notch at 3 times the thickness of the board, then we define the width of the notch equal to the thickness of the board.
If your boards are well defined, use a carpenter's square. Using it is more convenient than reporting multiple measurements with the meter. It also saves time and minimizes the risk of errors.
Always start the measurements from the same side to avoid errors related to variations in the lengths of the boards, in case they are not strictly identical.
Still with the square, transfer the outline of the top to the side and hatch to delimit the area to be removed.

Step 2: Sawing

Hold the board firmly or use a clamp. Do not saw on the line, but just on the border, so that it is always visible, even when the piece is removed.

Step 3: Break

When you have sawed both sides of the notch, you will notice that it is not possible to saw the small part of the bottom parallel to the length of the board. We will use the weakness of the wood in this precise place to "break" this piece using a fine hammer or anything that does not exceed the width of the notch. For example, the breakdown (the side that is not used to drive nails) of a conventional hammer. Position yourself as on the photo above and hit with a sharp blow, the piece breaks exactly where you want it. If the cut is not strictly exact, it does not matter, you will see this during assembly.

Step 4: Adjust

Try to nest the elements, without forcing. If it gets stuck, adjust with the grater. In this photo, the yellow part represents the risk of breakage zone if you file the red zone. So you have to file on the other side, like in this photo.

Step 5 Assemble

Then, it only remains to nest the pieces. The last piece is more difficult to put, it may be necessary to force slightly.

Step 5: Protect

This is a vegetable patch, in which vegetables will grow. You must therefore refrain from any chemical treatment at the risk of finding them on your plate! Which excludes stains, anti-xylophagous treatments, siccatives, thinners. Here, linseed oil only. Tip: to make it penetrate, it must be slightly heated in a double boiler, it will thin and more easily penetrate the wood fiber.

Step 6: Install

You have previously stirred and weeded the small piece of soil under the square. This will allow you to level it more easily by spreading the soil. You can attach two stakes at opposite angles to hold it. If you completely fill the square, it will not be useless to reinforce it with stakes planted outside the center of the boards.
It is not necessarily finished, you can now consider: - If you want to raise your square higher, to superimpose another square maintained by stakes planted in the corners - To place four stakes as here, to join them by wires so as to make a plant climb there (rose, kiwi, tomatoes…) - To make a square “seasoning” (spices, spices…) - To use these stakes to shelter a culture (with a forcing veil, a plastic …) There are only limits of your imagination…

---