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- a recovered pallet
- a large board of medium
- an electric saw
- 4 large casters
Step 1 of the pallet table:
If necessary, cut a piece of your palette so that it is the desired size. Ours was very large, so we had to cut a piece of it so that it was a size suitable for our living room. The excess planks must be removed delicately (they can be used later).
Step 2 of the pallet table:
Then you have to remove the cleats and the boards underneath. Do it gently so as not to damage them. Remember to also dismantle the cleats and the boards of the part that you removed previously, they will be used again later. Why have to dismantle everything, you say? As the pallet has been cut, the battens must be removed and replaced so that the whole is well symmetrical and balanced.
Step 3 of the pallet table:
Third step, sand the boards with sandpaper to clean them. You notice that we are missing a board on the right, it was damaged, so it was replaced by another already dismantled.
Step 4 of the pallet table:
Then, unglue the boards to re-nail them without space between them. In everyday life, it's still more practical to be able to put something on the table without it landing on the floor below. You can also keep the spacings and screw a glass or Plexiglas tray on top of the pallet.
Step 5 of the pallet table:
Then cut a medium board to the same dimensions as your tray. We used a medium board that we had left to minimize the cost of the table, but you can also use a raw wood board that you can varnish and / or paint. It is possible to have your board cut directly to the right dimensions if you are poorly equipped.
Step 6 of the pallet table:
Reserve three boards that you will screw at the same time as the cleats on the medium board. You can use the less pretty boards, they will be under the table, so you will not see them. Seen from below, your table will look like this:
Step 7 of the pallet table:
Then you have to sand the cleats and fix them with large screws to the table tops. You will need 9: 3 will be at the front of the table, 3 at the back and 3 in the middle. For more details, look at the diagram below, the cleats are indicated by blue squares. Little reminder before screwing everything: for the medium part, the side with the boards will be under the table. If you want to emphasize the industrial side of this table, place the parts of the cleats with inscriptions on the outside of the tray so that they are clearly visible.
Step 8 of the pallet table:
To screw the trays, use long screws (at least 5 x 60 mm) which will pass through both the table and a good part of the cleat. I advise you to prepare the ground by drilling with a fine drill the place where you want to pass the screw, that will facilitate the work of screwing. Each cleat is held in place with two screws, one in the lower plate and the other in the upper plate.
Step 9 of the pallet table:
It is then necessary to varnish or vitrify the plate to protect it from knocks and dirt. For our table, we used oiled parquet effect glazer.
Step 10 of the pallet table:
All that's left is to screw the wheels! We used for each wheel 4 screws, one (6 x 60 mm) screwed into the cleat and 3 others (6 x 40 mm) screwed in the bottom board and in the medium board. We took large castors 10 cm in diameter, two with brakes. We have two children and we didn't want the coffee table to turn into a giant skateboard!
And There you go ! A homemade coffee table, almost everything in recuperation!
Thanks to Gabulle for her creation! Did you like this tutorial? Send us photos of your coffee table on our Facebook page, and find other ideas on our Pinterest!