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Difficulty : easy Cost : around 25 € Tools required : - Cartridge gun - Sealing silicone cartridge (white or transparent) - Paint protection adhesive (scotch paper) - Scissors, a cutter, soap or dishwashing liquid
Step 1: I inspect, I clean and I spot the largest gap between the bottom of my tiles and the kitchen worktop
First of all, the parts to be joined must be clean and free of all residues and fats. Refer to this video which explains how to properly prepare its support before installing a bathtub joint. Then, you will have to locate the place where the gap is greatest between the earthenware and the worktop. This will determine the maximum height of the joint and a fortiori the location of the adhesive on the vertical wall.
Step 2: I stick the adhesive on the earthenware and the worktop
Start from the center to the edges. In this way, if you are not quite right, the error will be minimized. Do not hesitate to peel off the adhesive if the result is not perfect. For angles, do not complicate by trying to do everything in a single pass, cut the tape with the cutter, because you will find it difficult to maintain the level after an angle.
The upper part is finished, now protect the lower part. There is no rule regarding the reservation of space in relation to the wall. For a harmonious result, place the scotch tape at an equal distance from the wall from that of the upper part. For a more functional result, give less spacing at the bottom, so that the joint is more vertical, therefore less subject to splashes and dirt.
Step 3: I apply the silicone joint between the earthenware and the kitchen worktop
Now that everything is ready, it is so simple that it would become almost pleasant. You have to work by lengths, that is to say you have to deal with one length after another. You don't have to do it all in one pass if you're not fast. The silicone joint does not dry quickly, but it works in a very short period of time, after which it does not smooth as well and may even make beads when ironing over it. Place a bead of equal thickness all along the groove. Do not put too much, but not too little either. There must be a slight surplus when you spread the joint with your finger.
Step 4: I smooth the silicone joint with a damp finger without fear of overflowing on the protective tape
Having previously moistened your finger with dishwashing liquid, or simply wet it in water or saliva, flatten your joint by pressing firmly so that it penetrates deep into the groove. If it is missing, add it immediately, do not wait, and reread. Evacuate any surplus by wiping your finger on a cloth or paper towel.
Ideally, you should feel the roughness of the paper around the edges of your finger. This indicates that the thickness of the seal is dying on the paper on either side of your finger. This is to avoid a possible bead by removing the tape if there was too much silicone. The bead is not bad in itself, but quite unsightly.
Step 5: After applying the silicone seal, I remove the protective tape
All the portions are done, you must now remove the tape without further delay. The ideal is to remove it using an angle as open as possible so as not to risk peeling off the edges of the joint if you have had a heavy hand.
Step 6: I admire the result: I just made a perfectly straight silicone gasket
Yes, you can be proud of yourself, such a nickel seal can only be the work of a pro!